Log for Tuesday, July 1, 2003

Root River, Minnesota
Albert Lea Lake, Myre-Big Island State Park, Minnesota
Blue Mounds State Park, South Dakota
Missouri River, Chamberlain, South Dakota

It was so nice waking up early to the sounds of birds singing along Trempealeau Bay at Perrot State Park. I had a really nice campsite and would loved to have spent another few days here but I had to move on in order to make it to Glacier National Park in time to pick up my brother and his son. In particular, I would like to have had more time to explore the Great River State Bike Trail along the Mississippi, and the Trempealeau National Wildlife Refuge. The refuge provides an important habitat for a variety of migratory birds including bald eagles, osprey, black terns, American white pelicans, sora rails, several species of ducks and warblers. There was also the Trempealeau River with a boat launch right off the highway. Next time.

I drove up Route 35 North to Route 54 from Perrot State Park to Winona to cross the Mississippi River. Along the way I crossed the Black River, another spot to remember for the next trip. There were some great names for businesses along this route, such as the Sand Bar Restaurant. Winona, Minnesota was founded by a steamboat captain in 1851. Its location on an island in the Mississippi made it a transportation hub and one of the nation's richest cities by 1900.

After crossing the Mississippi River, I stayed on Route 43 South through Winona, Minnesota and went back to Route 90 for a few miles. I took the Route 43/Root River exit off of I-90 and drove south to Rushford to pick up Route 16 to the Root River Valley.

Route 16 is also called the Historic Bluff Country Scenic Byway. It runs approximately 88 miles and rejoins Route 90 after passing through the Root River Valley. The first thing I saw was a deer running across the road on Route 16 and some of the most prosperous working farms I'd ever seen.

The Root River flows through the scenic Root River Valley and is surrounded by limestone bluffs. This river can be a challenge depending upon the water levels and weather conditions. There are landings located all along the river making it easy to get on and off the water at many points. There are designated canoe campsites along the riverbank for overnight trips.

I drove Route 16 West to County Road 36 to Whalan, Minnesota. I wanted to float down the Root River on a raft so I stopped off at Gator Greens Kayaks in Whalan. I took a left over the small bridge and followed the signs for mini-golf about two blocks from the bridge. Unfortunately, I arrived too early in the morning and they were not yet open. I walked around Whalan a while and watched people biking on the Root River Bike Trail which runs along the Root River.

I next stopped at Albert Lea Lake, Myre-Big Island State Park, Minnesota. Myre-Big Island State Park (known locally as Big Island), is one of the best birding and kayaking spots in southern Minnesota. Albert Lea Lake has a surface area of 2,600 acres and over 20 miles of shoreline. The mixture of woods, prairie and wetlands provide habitat for a wide variety of animals. Mammals include white-tailed deer, raccoon, red and grey fox, muskrat, opossum, squirrels, and bats. Birds and waterfowl include bald eagle, marsh hawk, egret, blue heron, Canada goose, mallard, wood duck and blue-winged teal, northern oriole, eastern bluebird, rose-breasted grosbeak, pileated woodpecker, and white pelican. Myre-Big Island State Park has over 16 miles of hiking trails and 7 miles of mountain bike trails. The boat ramp is located on Big Island. Albert Lea Lake offers excellent kayaking with miles and miles of shoreline to explore. There were no changing rooms near the launch site and the boat ramp was a bit steep for kayak launching. There was an area next to the boat ramp which worked pretty well, although landing was a big tricky. I drove back to I-90 on I-35 which was easily accessible by turning left coming out of the park.

In Minnesota rest areas are called waysides. I stopped at many of these waysides during my travels through Minnesota. They provided nice picnic areas.

Next I took Exit 12 off I-90 and drove 3 miles North of Luverne, Minnesota off US Highway 75 to Blue Mounds State Park. Blue Mounds State Park gets its name from the blue color the cliffs take on when viewed from the east in the late afternoon. Sioux hunting parties used to herd buffalo over these cliffs. The park features a 100-foot Sioux quartzite cliff which stands out against the surrounding plains. Sioux quartzite is a red, pink and violet colored stone. The color comes from iron compounds coating the sand grains that make up the Sioux quartzite. Varying amounts of iron cause the variety of colors seen.

I saw my first bison herd grazing on the prairie at Blue Mounds State Park. Along with the prairie grasses and wildflowers there were prickly pear cacti blooming, and many birds and butterflies. The tall prairie grass makes moving waves as the wind blows and the fragrance of wildflowers fills the air. Blue Mounds State Park has two small lakes, Upper Mound Lake and Lower Mound Lake. I kayaked on Lower Mound Lake which has a small sandy beach for launching. Lower Mound Lake is completely surrounded by prairie grass. When I visited a strong wind was blowing and a very hot sun was shining down on the prairie. The extremely friendly staff at the visitor center pointed out the Bison herd viewing area, and advised me to take lots of water with me on the Bison herd trail.

A note on licenses in Minnesota: all non-motorized watercraft must be licensed by the Department of Natural Resources (DNR) in Minnesota. Non-motorized watercraft is defined as kayaks, canoes, sailboards, paddleboats, rowboats and inflatable craft. Exceptions to this law are non-motorized watercraft nine feet in length or less. Prior to my trip I registered my 16-foot Dagger Meridien kayak by mail at a total cost of $16.00. The turnaround time was very fast at around ten days from the time I sent my application in to the time I received my watercraft registration stickers. The only required information was the hull identification number and my address. The DNR also sent me the "Minnesota Boating Guide - a Summary of Laws and Rules 2003" which contains lots of useful information including a blank Float Plan, a 2003 Sunrise and Sunset Time Schedule, Internet Resources, and boat safety tips. Their website is located at www.dnr.state.mn.us/boating.

After crossing into South Dakota I started listening to Stephen E. Ambrose's book on CD, Undaunted Courage while driving towards Chamberlain. I was definitely getting into a Lewis and Clark frame of mind. In South Dakota, I did not stop at the Big Sioux River at Exit 332 on Route 90 or the Platt Creek Snake Creek Recreation Areas. I added these places to my list for the next trip.

I took Exit 263 off Route 90 on the Missouri River and took Route 50 through Chamberlain, South Dakota. After arriving in Chamberlain, South Dakota and dining at Casey's Cafe (up the hill right off of Exit 263), I kayaked in the Missouri River and Lake Francis Case. It was late afternoon when I launched at the Francis Case Lake beach access in the American Creek Campground. The soft sandy beach made the launching easy and the water was quite smooth. I had the Missouri River pretty much to myself.

I spent the night at the American Recreation Center in Chamberlain, SD. I had a very nice campsite right along the Missouri River. The lady who checked me in was one of the friendliest people I had met on the road. She enjoyed hearing about all of my kayaking exploits. I paid $13.00 for tent camping, which included showers, beach access at Francis Case Lake and an incredible sunset along the Missouri. I launched my kayak on the sandy beach at American Recreation Center.

Camping out on the eastern bluffs overlooking the Missouri River, I had amazing views of the Big Dipper and a bright quarter moon. There was a lovely breeze blowing from the Missouri and even though it was 90 degrees I was quite comfortable. There were no mosquitoes, only small gnats, so I was more fortunate than Lewis and Clark in that regard.

Lewis and Clark camped along the Missouri near Chamberlain and wrote of the splendid plum trees. I didn't see any plum trees. Chamberlain has many Lewis and Clark monuments and of course, the Lewis and Clark Memorial Bridge which crosses the Missouri River.

As for Casey's Cafe, it is a legend and, as I had read in many reviews, does indeed serve a fine hamburger. I saw my first Lakota Indians dining at Casey's Cafe. I liked the place so much that the next morning, after my early morning stroll down Main Street, I drove up for breakfast and had excellent scrambled eggs and bacon. I sat in a booth overlooking the Missouri River and stared out at blue sky and high clouds. I wrote down the daily specials (posted at 8:00 a.m.) from the chalkboard so I could remember them.

Casey's Homemade pies for the day:
Lemon
Walnut
Peach
Blueberry (written in blue ink)
Sour Cream Raisin
Cherry (written in red ink)
French Apple
Butterscotch
Chocolate
Coconut
Oatmeal Raisin Cookies

Specials: Bread Bowl $3.90, vegetable beef or beef noodle

I have never had a bread bowl and I was sorry that I would be gone by lunchtime and would not get to taste Casey's beef noodle bread bowl.